Category Archives: Events / Outings

The Red Light District

Lewis and I have taken two tours through the Red Light District.

1. Last year, 2013, we took the Saturday 5pm tour offered through the Prostitution Information Center (PIC). Mariska who now runs PIC was a prostitute and she gave us an informative one hour tour. She’s serious about this age old business and we learned a lot. If you are traveling with your parents, your kids or someone you don’t know very well, we recommend this one. www.pic-amsterdam.com   2. This year we found Mark Law, a quirky, fun tour guide to take us through again.  His tours are usually two hours long though we cut it down to one and a half. With Mark we saw more of the underbelly of the Red Light District, and he successfully took us out of our comfort zone. He also did a good job answering the questions around legalizing prostitution. You have to schedule tours with him by calling him or using his website. Also important to note: he doesn’t just do tours of the Red Light District. www.thatdamguide.com Phone: 0031 (0) 6272 69604  or mark@thatdamguide.com I stole this picture from his website: 

That Dam Guide on the right with the two oldest prostitutes in the Red Light District

That Dam Guide on the right with the two oldest prostitutes in the Red Light District

Patterns of Urban Settlement

Cities are laid out differently in the Netherlands than in the US.

First, the Dutch have made a virtue of living with density.  For them, it’s better.  It’s gezellig (see other post:   ).  Most houses are small and share outer walls.   In cities with canals, such as Amsterdam, Haarlem, and, well, most Dutch cities, canal houses are 3 or 4 stories high and only 6 meters wide.  Think of “brownstones” in Brooklyn or “walk-ups” in Boston, but much more compact.  In the Netherlands, it’s not just a city or two–it’s nearly the entire country.

Because the center of the city is often historic, there are restrictions on demolition and reconstruction.  The city should preserve its historic character.  And there is nothing more charming than a city of canals. As a result, the center of the city is where many people prefer to live. Shops, restaurants, and cafes that people need for comfortable daily life are nearby.  A few businesses that can use small home-sized offices also exist in the city.

Factories and office buildings are built around the perimeter of the old central city.  The highway ring around Amsterdam is the A10. Along the A10 are skyscrapers (sort of–the Dutch don’t like anything to be too high because it might lose its top in the wind), oddly shaped mid-rise office buildings cantilevered over empty space because–well, because it’s possible, and huge entirely modern factories.  This is where people work.

Finally, some Dutch people seem to grow weary of gezellig.  They want the ceilings to be a bit further above their heads and they want staircases that don’t require human body compression to use.  They want their kids in their own rooms.  Out in the country and beyond the city center, you do see detached single family homes.  In a lot of towns, these are quite small and often built with shared exterior side walls (see Edam:   ).  But, in parts of the countryside and in the affluent areas of Haarlem, there are very large duplexes and large separate single family homes.  In fact, in Haarlem some suburban and quite substantial homes have thatched roofs.

The result of this is a nicer pattern to urban living.  People live in compact places close by their favorite restaurant-cafe and cozy shopping street with small shops that provide the essentials.  They go out of the city to work via the tram, the train, possibly by car or motorbike, and if not too far, by bike.

Compare this to American-style living.  The ideal–except in places like Manhattan or San Francisco–is to avoid density.  Space is the ultimate freedom and fulfillment of the American dream:  a single family home surrounded by some patch of personal greenery.  As a result, cars are essential to get to work and to forage for the necessities of life.  Never mind, for a moment, the environmental impact.  Just consider the stress of car trips, parking, and the time involved.  Neighborliness is almost a thing of the past.

From an environmental standpoint, the paradox is that a dense city is more environmental than a spread out city. Less land is used.  Electricity, water, gas, cable (for internet or TV) all run shorter distances.  Multiple family buildings are less expensive to heat and cool.   There are many fewer car trips needed for day-to-day life.  Networks of trams or buses become convenient because they connect many more people to the destinations people want to reach with only a very short walk and a short trip.

What’s remarkable about Dutch cities is that density is pleasant and often beautiful.  In the US, density often implies dilapidation or urban crime.  Less so in the Netherlands.  Many, many places are extraordinarily pleasant.  Of course, not all Dutch are rich and not all places are quaint.  But, even extensive low-rise buildings designed for less affluent families are close to shopping, schools, and recreation.  This seems to be a conscious choice made by Dutch city planners who have adapted the coziness of historic cities and towns to accommodate more people and a modern economy.

Dad’s 80th: A Day of Flowers

 

Rodman Ward Sr. born April 8th, 1934: Happy Birthday, Dad!

Flower Auction in Aalsmeer: World’s largest flower auction.  We were so glad we got up early and went out of our way to visit this huge spectacle. We rented a minivan for the day through xxx.  We were told that about 90 million flowers and plants change hands every day at this auction. There is even a special trolley line that takes carts and carts of flowers out of the auction house straight to the airport. www.vba-aalsmeer.nl

Inside the Warehouse

Inside the Warehouse

Kuekenhof: The Netherland’s famous bulb garden.  Kueken means kitchen and hof means garden. Gigi, my sister, said, “That’s gotta be the biggest kitchen garden in the world.”  The flowers were out in all their colorful splendor though the weather wasn’t as cooperative. Despite the intermittent rain, we had umbrellas and it was April, the only real month to go.

Kuekenhof Gardens

Kuekenhof Gardens

Private Canal Boat to our dinner at the Intercontinental Hotel’s La Rive Restaurant

Restaurant Notes

Bluespoon in the Andaz Hotel

One of the reasons I am writing about this restaurant is that it isn’t in any of the guide books we are using.

Coming home from a dinner out along the Prinsengracht canal, we ran into an attractive elderly couple out walking their wired haired dachshund. Trusting their taste, we asked them what their favorite restaurant in Amsterdam was. Smiling at each other, they responded, “The Bluespoon.”

High end, expensive, and modern sophisticated (the exact opposite of Wally) , the Bluespoon turned out to be the perfect restaurant to take my parents, sister and our brother-in-law. We had an elegant, delicious dinner and the wine was perfect.

 

Keizersgracht 238

Attached to the Pullizer Hotel with its entrance on the Keizersgracht, this hotel was another hit with our parents.  We had a delicious lunch here after spending the morning at the Rijkmuseum. The full wall mural that makes fun of the huge golden age Dutch paintings is an example of typical Dutch humor. They love to make fun of themselves.

 

The Cute Little Town of Edam

Our first overnight bike trip to the north of Amsterdam was to the town of Edam. This little place was, in a Dutch word, charmant. We spent the night at a charmant hotel called the Fortuna and rode home, via Marken Island, the next day.

Our Route To Edam

Our Route To Edam

Delightful De Fortuna, built in 1654

Delightful De Fortuna, built in 1654

Highlights

  • Dinner at Fortuna (best dinner yet! Cheers to the cook.)
  • Ferry ride to Marken Island
  • Cheese Museum in Volendam
  • Tasting the water on either side of the dike to see if it was fresh or salt… answer: fresh leaning to brackish on both sides because the former ZuiderZee has been enclosed as the IJsselmeer.
  • Walking around Edam, beers at the Dam Hotel
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Fietspad (bike path) on the top of a dike

Walking Bridge (Brug)

Walking Bridge (Brug)

Canal as reflecting pool

Canal as reflecting pool

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Approaching Marken Island (return trip to Amsterdam)

 

Hermitage Museum

The fabulous Hermitage Museum has a branch in Amsterdam.  It’s the only museum open on Mondays.  They have works from the Hermitage collection on tour.  The presentation of the collection is stunning.

Last one in the caravan only has 1 hump!

Last one in the caravan only has 1 hump!

Museums and sunshine…

Today, Emmy and I took our daughters Susie and Ellie to the Van Gogh Museum and the Rijksmuseum (our son Jay is slaving away at school).  It was a beautiful day in the high teens and the world was enjoying museums and cafes.

Here are Susie, Ellie, and Vincent:

Passing by Vincent and Vincent

Passing by Vincent and Vincent

On the way across the field, it was necessary to pose on the “I Amsterdam” letters (what is a “sterdam”?)

Emmy, Ellie, and Susie alight on the letters

Emmy, Ellie, and Susie alight on the letters

After an exhausting day of museum hopping, we had to join the hordes basking in the sunshine of the Leidseplein for lunch.  Here, Ellie samples her first beer (ever, honest) with appropriate adult supervision.

First beer

First beer

More Biking in Amsterdam

With all the stories of gentleman riding bikes in tweed jackets and ladies riding in skirts and spike heels and moms toting toddlers to daycare, you might think that bicycling in Amsterdam is a breeze, or a walk in the park, or something that seems very easy.  Well, sorta…

There are dedicated bike lines along most busy streets.  There are separate traffic signals for people, bikes, and cars. There is a network of numbered bike routes throughout the entire country.  The law says that the slowest and most vulnerable form of transportation has the right of way, hence:  pedestrians, bikes, cars–in that order.  The bicycling injury rate in  Holland is 1/5 to 1/9 per billion miles cycled compared to the United States, even though no one wears helmets.

All that is well and good.  For the tourist spending only a day or two in Amsterdam, bicycling is a bit chaotic.  On the narrow streets along the canals, pedestrians, bikes, and cars mix.  Bikes rule and are the fastest.  Amsterdam’ers aren’t out for a leisurely jaunt; they’re going to work, to school, to a date and they’re in a hurry–and you, silly tourist, are in the way.  Don’t stop to make a left turn–just time your turn to go in between the 3-wheeled delivery truck, the Mercedes-Benz taxi, the chic young woman texting while riding, and the elderly woman walking her wire-haired dachshund.  You’ll make it…

It’s rumored there are 18 million bikes for the 16 million people of the Netherlands.  About of million of those bikes are parked outside the Amsterdam Central Station in this double-decker bike parking structure.

double-decker-bikes

A Day in Den Haag (The Hague)

With our daughter Susie, who is visiting for a week, we took a 50 minute train ride from Amsterdam to Den Haag.  We visited three spots:

1. The Gemeente Museum (Obama had been there the day before talking about the Nuclear Safety Issues!) Due to the renovations of the more popular Mauritshaus Museum, the Gemeente had received 100 of this museum’s famous paintings. Two of our favorites…

a. Rembrandt van Rijn – The anatomy lesson of Dr Nicolaes Tulp

b. Johannes Vermeer – View of Delft

2. Madurodam  A huge miniature village which reminded us of legoland except the materials were realistic. A whole outside area was dedicated to Holland’s buildings, streets, canals, you name it… Schipohl Airport even in miniature.

Susie and a Model of The Rijksmuseum

Susie and a Model of The Rijksmuseum

3. Escher in Het Paleis  A museum which houses two floors of M.C. Escher’s works in Queen Emma of the Netherland’s winter palace.

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